How to date old furniture
Dating old furniture is a process of evidence, not a single trick. Construction, hardware, wood, surface, backboards, drawer interiors, labels, and repairs should be read together.
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Start with the parts that are hardest to fake casually: underside, back, secondary woods, drawer bottoms, joinery, saw marks, hardware shadows, locks, and surface wear.
Auction records are market evidence, not a final appraisal. Condition, authenticity, provenance, size, completeness, repairs, logistics, and demand can materially change value.
Identification checklist
- Photograph underside, back, drawer sides, drawer bottoms, dovetails, pegs, screws, nails, locks, hinges, and hardware shadows.
- Show the surface in natural light, including wear, refinishing, paint layers, veneer, stains, and repairs.
- Measure the piece and note whether sections, drawers, shelves, leaves, or mirrors appear original.
- Keep maker labels, retailer labels, receipts, and provenance notes with the piece.
What changes the answer
- Hand construction clues need to be weighed against later repairs and revival styles.
- Original surface, hardware shadows, and secondary woods often matter as much as the visible front.
- Dating narrows the comparison set; it does not by itself establish value.
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