A good oil lamp can tell its story in photographs. The burner, font, chimney, shade, maker marks, material, conversion, and damage all help an appraiser decide what the lamp is and what evidence still needs work. Your job is not to solve the attribution first. Your job is to make the lamp easy to read.
This checklist gives you a complete shot list, a parts inventory, a damage map, and safety notes you can copy into an appraisal request. It works for table lamps, hanging lamps, banquet lamps, student lamps, and converted examples. If a part name is uncertain, write “uncertain” and photograph it. A clear unknown is more useful than a confident guess.
Reusable appraisal tool
Take these 12 photos before you move anything
Use indirect daylight, a plain background, and the same camera orientation where possible. Include one ruler or tape-measure view, but do not let it cover the object.
- Complete lamp, straight onShow the full height from base to chimney or shade. Do not crop the finial, feet, or top rim.
- Complete lamp, backCapture seams, brackets, cords, switches, fill caps, or hardware hidden from the front.
- Left and right sidesSide profiles reveal lean, asymmetry, mounting hardware, and the depth of a font or reservoir.
- Top viewPhotograph the burner opening, gallery, chimney seat, shade ring, and any cap or flame spreader.
- Base and undersideShow maker stamps, patent wording, casting numbers, felt, screws, drill holes, and repairs.
- Burner, wick knob, and collarTake one assembled view and close-ups of every word, logo, number, or patent date.
- Font or fuel reservoirShow the material, fill opening, seams, threaded neck, discoloration, and suspected cracks or leaks.
- ChimneyPhotograph its profile, fitter edge, top edge, etched marks, chips, cracks, cloudiness, and heat damage.
- Shade, globe, and supportsShow the decoration, rim, fitter, shade ring, arms, clips, and any mismatch in fit or color.
- Every maker markTake a context photo showing where the mark sits, then a sharp close-up square to the surface.
- Every damaged or altered areaPhotograph each chip, crack, dent, solder joint, replacement screw, drilled hole, and added electrical part.
- MeasurementsRecord total height, base width, font width, burner diameter, chimney fitter diameter, and shade fitter diameter.
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Inventory the parts before you clean or separate them
Completeness matters, but “present” does not automatically mean “original.” A burner may fit a font without having started life with it. A chimney or shade may be an appropriate replacement. An appraiser needs to see the fit, threading, finish, wear, and construction before making that call.
| Part | Record | What to photograph |
|---|---|---|
| Burner and wick mechanism | Present / missing / stuck / uncertain | Knob, wick slots, air holes, gallery, threads, marks |
| Font or reservoir | Glass / metal / ceramic / uncertain | Neck, seams, fill cap, interior if safely visible |
| Chimney | Present / missing / damaged / uncertain fit | Profile, fitter edge, top rim, marks, cracks |
| Shade or globe | Present / missing / replacement suspected | Decoration, fitter, rim, supports, fit |
| Base, stem, arms, or hanger | Complete / loose / repaired / altered | Joints, fasteners, casting, underside |
| Conversion components | None seen / electric / other / uncertain | Socket, cord, plug, switch, adapters, drilled holes |
Do not force a frozen burner, unscrew a fragile collar, or pull a tight chimney just to complete the list. Photograph the obstruction and note that the part was not removed. The oil lamp identification guide explains how these components work together when you are ready to name them.
Map damage so the appraiser can judge its effect
“Good condition for its age” is not a useful condition report. Name the defect, give its location, and add scale. Write “12 mm hairline crack at the lower font seam,” not simply “small crack.” If you cannot measure safely, place a ruler beside the area without touching it.
- Glass and ceramic: chips, hairlines, star cracks, bruises, rim loss, cloudiness, staining, crazing, and glued joins.
- Metal: dents, splits, corrosion, pitting, solder, plating loss, bent galleries, loose joints, and replaced fasteners.
- Paint and decoration: flaking, overpainting, abrasion, fading, missing transfers, retouching, and polish residue.
- Fit and structure: lean, wobble, gaps, cross-threading, loose collars, unstable shade supports, and parts that do not seat correctly.
- Alterations: drilled holes, added sockets, shortened stems, rewiring, replaced burners, adapters, and filled openings.
Conversion is evidence, not an automatic verdict. Record whether electrical fittings appear to use an adapter or whether the lamp itself was drilled or cut. Do not dismantle wiring to find out. Our guide to oil lamps converted to electric shows why reversibility, retained parts, and visible alterations deserve separate notes.
Record marks, measurements, and the story you actually know
A maker mark is useful, but it is not enough on its own. Marks can appear on a burner that was fitted later, while an unsigned font may still carry useful construction clues. Transcribe every character exactly. Preserve punctuation. If one letter is unclear, use a question mark instead of completing the name from memory.
Measure the lamp assembled only when it is stable. Record inches or centimeters consistently. For round fittings, measure the outside diameter at the point where the part seats. These numbers help distinguish a properly fitted component from one that merely balances in place.
Then add ownership history in plain terms: where it came from, approximately when it entered the family, whether old photographs show it, and which parts were stored with it. Separate documentation from family tradition. “Receipt dated 1968” and “said to have belonged to a great-grandparent” are different kinds of evidence, and both can be recorded honestly.
Safety stop-list
Document first; do not test an uncertain lamp
An appraisal photograph is not a safety inspection. Do not light the lamp or plug in a conversion merely to prove that it works. Stop and seek an appropriate lamp-restoration or electrical professional if you see any of the following:
- a cracked, chipped, or poorly seated chimney;
- a cracked font, damp seam, fuel odor, residue, or suspected leak;
- a jammed burner, damaged wick control, loose collar, or unstable base;
- unknown fuel, old fuel, improvised caps, blocked air openings, or mismatched parts;
- brittle insulation, exposed conductor, loose socket, missing strain relief, scorch marks, or drilled metal at an electrical conversion.
Keep fuel away from the photography area and tell the appraiser whether the reservoir appears empty. Do not sniff closely, probe the font, pressure-test it, or pour in fuel. A historical U.S. Bureau of Standards household-safety reference specifically advised replacing cracked or broken lamp chimneys; the practical modern takeaway is simpler: damaged combustion glass belongs in the condition record, not in a lighting test.
Copy-and-paste worksheet
Send this note with your photo set
Know what this evidence can—and cannot—answer
A complete submission helps an appraiser compare the whole object rather than guessing from one decorative view. Burner, font, chimney, shade, maker marks, material, conversion, and damage are the core visible factors. Together they can support a working identification, show whether more photographs are needed, and narrow the right market research.
They do not guarantee originality, safe operation, or a specific value. Market value depends on what the object proves to be, its completeness and condition, and the relevant market at the effective date. With no usable comparable-sales evidence in this article’s research run, we are deliberately not publishing a generic price range. For that next stage, use the antique oil lamp value guide and old oil lamps value guide, then compare like with like.
A typical estate-clearance problem is simple: one person photographs only the decorated shade, while the identifying mark sits under the base and the altered burner is never shown. The checklist prevents that. It turns a pretty lamp photo into a record an appraiser can actually use.
Oil lamp appraisal checklist FAQ
How many photos should I send?
Start with the 12 views above. Add one context image and one close-up for every extra mark, defect, repair, or loose part. Sharp overlap is better than leaving a gap.
Should I clean the lamp first?
A light dusting may be enough when the lamp is stable. Do not polish metal, wash paper labels, remove residue, or use chemicals before you photograph the existing surface. Cleaning can hide evidence or create new damage.
Can I photograph loose parts separately?
Yes. Put them on a padded, plain surface, photograph both sides, and include a label showing where each part was found. Do not force them back into place for the picture.
What if I do not know the fuel type?
Write “unknown.” Do not infer a fuel from appearance and do not test it. A burner specialist can assess the system after seeing the construction and markings.
Does a missing chimney or shade make an appraisal pointless?
No. Missing parts affect completeness, but the remaining burner, font, base, marks, and material may still support identification. State what is absent instead of borrowing a part for the photo.
Is a free estimate the same as a formal appraisal?
No. A free first read can help determine whether the lamp merits deeper research. Insurance, estate, donation, or legal decisions may require a written appraisal with a defined value type, effective date, scope, and supporting evidence.
Sources and scope
- Appraisily: Antique oil lamp identification—burner, font, chimney, and marks
- Antique Lamp Supply: Parts of kerosene oil lamps
- U.S. Bureau of Standards: Safety for the Household (historical reference)
This checklist supports documentation and appraisal preparation. It is not a combustion, fuel-system, structural, or electrical safety certification.
Search variations this checklist answers
- What photos are needed for an antique oil lamp appraisal?
- How do I photograph oil lamp maker marks?
- Oil lamp parts checklist for appraisal
- How to document a cracked oil lamp font
- What measurements does an oil lamp appraiser need?
- Should I light an old oil lamp before appraisal?
- How to record an oil lamp electric conversion
- Antique oil lamp condition report template